Moschino Mens Spring 2023 – WWD
Fonderia Macchi’s industrial space framed Jeremy Scott’s first solo menswear show for Moschino in Milan.
With a bold, focused and cohesive collection, he paid homage to the late American fashion illustrator and photographer Tony Viramontes, whom Scott considers “an unsung hero, because he’s not a household name…But he had a such influence in pop culture because of his work.”
The designer transferred his energetic strokes and vivid color combinations directly to garments, turning them into canvases of motion that evoked some of illustrators’ most important works for high-profile magazines and album covers, like “Control ” by Janet Jackson from 1986. .
Working with the Viramontes estate to secure the rights to his images, Scott applied abstract faces and patterns to the tailoring, as seen on a striking series of suits ranging from a two-tone door opener to a blazer jacket. elongated and oversized. Overall, the silhouettes had contrasting proportions, from cropped shirts and denim jackets to roomy hoodies and anoraks; from casual bermudas to tapered pants tucked into biker or combat boots, plus pleated skirts and sarongs thrown into the mix.
While the graphics were the immediate focus of attention, the entire collection channeled the Buffalo Boys attitude. The reference to Viramontes’ work for The Face magazine on the key 1980s fashion movement led by Ray Petri, matched the fearless message of self-expression that Scott always pushed during his tenure at Moschino.
The combination of tailoring and workwear with leather and vinyl pieces gave the benchmark grit, toughness and sense of rebellion, amplifying the collection’s visual strength. In the end, the mix best served the purpose of Scott’s presence on Milan’s June calendar: expressing the true power of his menswear, freed from the shadow of the flamboyant female counterpart. Mission accomplished.